Last year I was late getting our pea crops in the ground because the winter continued cold & wet through January. On 17th January last year, I noted that we’d had over 1 month of snow, with freezing temperatures. We had also lost our fruit cages due to the weight & volume of snow accumulated. The brassicas that had stood over winter, particularly the Red sprouting Broccoli, had suffered from the freezing temperatures & I had to strip most of the leaves because they’d actually frozen, probably due to the brassica beds being in a frost pocket at the bottom of our allotment. I also noted: ‘Been v. wet-tomorrow promises to be a wet, windy stormy day. We both have storming colds!’ Jan 27th 2010.
For those of you living in colder, more northerly areas, this is probably nothing new, but for the South Downs it is; we have usually very mild winters, but 2010 & 2011 seem to herald a change that is prompting us to re-think our sowing & planting strategies.
I didn’t get our early peas into the ground until mid-April last year, from chitting them in late February, pods at the end of June. I’ve been determined to get a crop earlier this year, so chitted some early peas at the beginning of January,planted out in root trainers, in the ground mid February. To protect the plants from both the cold & the pigeons I enclosed them with blue builders netting (picture below). These were planted out in February; yesterday I took the netting off, put hoops of blue water conduit over & netted with fruitcage netting. I also planted spinach seedlings along each frame (have still to download picture to illustrate this – will post later). I never sow peas in the ground due to marauding mice/rats/squirrels digging them up – I’m not sure even soaking them in urine (recommended by some!) would help. Instead, I soak, chit & plant out in root trainers as explained earlier.
I usually have 2 rows of peas lengthways along each bed; I use chicken wire threaded on posts (old bamboo or stout sticks) with thinner bamboo/sticks threaded along the top to prevent the wire collapsing once the peas have grown. Once I’ve a frame made, since all the beds I’ll grow peas in are approximately the same size, it’s just folded away each autumn/winter & stored until the following spring. I leave enough space between the frames to allow picking comfortably.
I’ve produced a chart so you can see what I’ve done & the time frames involved; I’ll up-date it as the crops develop. I’m also planting up whole beds, or at least am keeping 1 variety of pea to each frame: this helps when seed-saving so you don’t get confused about what variety you’ve saved & don’t end up with tubs of saved “misc peas’!
You might be interested to note when the full moons were in relation to chitting & planting out:19th Jan, 18th Feb, 19th March.The new moon in January was on the 4th, hence chitting the 1st set of peas on 5-6th. The 19th March full moon was particularly strong & it’s influence seemed to lag particularly over 2 days afterwards (more in a later post).
|Pea Variety||Soaked/ chitted||In root trainers||In ground|
|Piccolo Provencale1 – 1st E round seed||5-6th Jan||16th Jan||21st Feb|
|Piccolo Provencale2||16-18th Jan||27th Jan||21st Feb|
|Douce Provence – 1stE round seed||13-14th Feb||23rd Feb||19th March|
|Early Onward1 – 1stE wrinkled seed||13-14th Feb||23rd Feb||12th March|
|Robinson HSL (CP)||13-14th Feb||23rd Feb||19th March|
|Clarke’s Beltony Blue (CP)||13-14th Feb||23rd Feb||19th March|
|Hugh’s Huge (CP)||13-14th Feb||23rd Feb||19th March|
|Bijou Giant Sugar Pea (CP)||16-17th March||24th March|
|Early Onward2||16-17th March||24th March|